Visiting the Dordogne without a car: myth or reality?

The Dordogne without a car? The idea might seem adventurous in a department where villages nestle in deep valleys, far from any urban center. And yet, on closer inspection, Périgueux holds a pleasant surprise: the capital of the Dordogne is a true railway hub, with four TER regional train lines radiating outwards across the entire region. This offers a fresh perspective on exploring the Périgord, provided you know what actually works and what remains, frankly, quite challenging.

Visiting the Périgord without a car: our practical tips

Four TER regional train lines from Périgueux

It all begins on the platform of Périgueux station. A 19th-century building with a bourgeois air, it is far from being a simple transit point. Four TER lines serve it, each opening onto a different territory.

L31/D31 — Limoges / Périgueux / Bordeaux

This is the ideal route for exploring the Isle Valley. Both variants share the same Bordeaux–Limoges route via Périgueux, but with different stops.

• The L31 serves all the small intermediate stations: Thiviers on the north side, then Razac, Saint-Astier, Neuvic, Mussidan, Montpon-Ménestérol, Saint-Seurin-sur-l'Isle, Saint-Médard-de-Guizières, Coutras, Libourne, Cenon and Bordeaux on the west side.
• The D31 is more direct and does not stop at Neuvic and Saint-Astier. If you wish to get off at these stations, you must take the L31.

L32/F32 — Ussel / Brive / Périgueux / Bordeaux

This line covers the entire Bordeaux–Périgueux–Tulle axis. On the west side, it serves the same stations as the L31 in the Isle valley : Saint-Astier, Neuvic, Mussidan, Montpon-Ménestérol, Saint-Seurin-sur-l'Isle, Saint-Médard-de-Guizières, Coutras, Libourne, Cenon and Bordeaux.

It also serves Marsac and Boulazac between Périgueux and the valley in the Périgord Blanc.

On the east side, it joins Brive-la-Gaillarde via Terrasson-Lavilledieu and Condat-sur-Vézère, with a possible extension to Tulle.

D33 — Bordeaux / Bergerac / Sarlat

The Périgord Pourpre and Périgord Noir line, departing from Bordeaux, serves Saint-Émilion, Castillon, Vélines, Sainte-Foy-la-Grande, Gardonne, Bergerac, Lalinde, Mauzac, Trémolat, Le Buisson, Siorac-en-Périgord, Saint-Cyprien, and Sarlat. It is a valuable route for reaching the Dordogne Valley and the Périgord Noir from Bordeaux or Bergerac.

L34 — Périgueux / Le Buisson / Sarlat

From Périgueux, the prehistoric valleys line passes through Boulazac, Niversac, Les Versannes, Les Eyzies and Le Bugue before reaching Le Buisson. This line provides a direct train connection from Périgueux to Les Eyzies, making it one of the most accessible tourist sites in the department without a car.

The Isle Valley: the best-served rail corridor

Between Périgueux and Bordeaux, lines L31 and L32 run alongside the Isle for dozens of kilometers. They serve a series of small stations whose charm is matched only by their discretion: Saint-Astier, Neuvic-sur-l'Isle, Mussidan, Montpon-Ménestérol... So many entry points to the river, its banks and its towpaths.

The F32 line also provides a reinforced frequency on this route during peak hours between Mussidan and Périgueux, an almost urban service, rare in rural areas, which facilitates round trips during the day.

This corridor is also the gateway to the Périgord Vert on the north side: the L31 line serves Thiviers and La Coquille, starting point of the Périgord section of the Flow Vélo, the cycle route which connects Sarlat to the island of Aix in Charente-Maritime.

The Périgord Noir by train: the Vézère stations

This is undoubtedly the most pleasant surprise of the network: Les Eyzies is accessible by direct train from Périgueux, on line L34 towards Agen and Sarlat. From the station, the village center is a 700-meter walk, one of the most convenient locations in the entire department for a visitor without a car.

The line also serves Le Bugue, although the station is located about two kilometers from the town (a bicycle or a summer bus can complete the journey). Further afield, Sarlat is accessible from Bordeaux via the L33 line, making it a viable base for exploring the Périgord Noir without a car.

From these stations, several remarkable routes are directly accessible on foot or by bicycle :

• The Micoque loop in Les Eyzies (12 km);
• The castle and park of Campagne seen from Le Bugue;
• The confluence of Limeuil between the Vézère and Dordogne rivers from Le Buisson-de-Cadouin.

The bicycle, a great companion for the car-free traveler

This is where everything changes. Traveling by TER regional train in Nouvelle-Aquitaine also means being able to bring your bike on board, free of charge and without reservation outside of the summer season. Each train has an average of six dedicated spaces.

In summer (from May to the end of September), a Bike Ticket becomes mandatory on certain lines : the process remains simple and inexpensive, and can be done directly on the SNCF Connect app or at the station. A VéloZen service is also offered on some trains during peak season. A dedicated agent handles the bikes upon boarding, with a capacity of up to twenty-five bikes per train.

Some rules to know before leaving:

• Arrive about twenty minutes before departure;
• Label your bike with your first and last name;
• Avoid peak hours.

The train + bike combination opens up particularly beautiful routes in Périgord: get off at Saint-Astier and follow the greenway to Périgueux, take the train to Les Eyzies and go up the Vézère by bike, embark at Thiviers to join the Flow Vélo towards Périgord Vert... So many loops that do not need a car to work.

The bus network to go further

The train doesn't cover everything. For areas not served by rail, 18 regional bus lines supplement the network in the Dordogne. In summer, 9 additional summer lines are added, several of which are specifically geared towards tourism: line 337 (Sarlat – Les Eyzies), line 339 (Vézère Valley) and line 338 (Dordogne Valley) provide access to villages otherwise inaccessible without a car.

Tickets can be purchased directly from the driver in cash or via the Ticket Modalis app.

What remains difficult: let's be honest

The TER regional train network provides access to Périgueux, the stations in the Isle Valley, Les Eyzies, Sarlat, and Bergerac, but it does not cover the entire region. Several areas remain difficult to access without a car.

• The iconic villages of the Périgord Noir : Beynac, Domme, La Roque-Gageac, Les Milandes, Rocamadour... None of them have a train station. Even from Sarlat, you'll need a bicycle, a taxi, or a summer bus to reach them.
• The heart of the Périgord Vert : Brantôme is only accessible by train via Angoulême with a change of train and the heart of the Regional Natural Park around Nontron remains difficult to access without a car, even if the Flow Vélo from Thiviers opens up a nice alternative by bike.

In practice: essential resources

To prepare for a stay in the Dordogne without a car — or by limiting its use:

• SNCF Connect (sncf-connect.com): purchase of TER tickets and Bike Tickets in summer.
• TER Nouvelle-Aquitaine (ter.sncf.com/nouvelle-aquitaine): timetables, bike information, VéloZen service.
• Transports Nouvelle-Aquitaine (transports.nouvelle-aquitaine.fr): regional bus network, timetables and stops.
• Ticket Modalis application : purchase of bus tickets online.
• DORIE app : geolocated audio content to accompany hikes from train stations, with testimonies from residents and discovery of local fauna and flora.

Exploring the Périgord region without a car isn't an impossible challenge. It's a different kind of journey— slower, more mindful, and more open to encounters. With Périgueux as your base and the TER regional train network as your guide, you already have everything you need to explore the heart of the department in a new way.

FAQ — Getting around Dordogne without a car

• Is it really possible to visit the Dordogne without a car? Yes, to some extent. Périgueux, Les Eyzies, Sarlat, Bergerac, and the train stations in the Isle Valley are accessible by train. For the more isolated villages (Beynac, Domme, La Roque-Gageac), you'll need to supplement your travel with a bicycle, a summer bus, or a taxi.

• What are the TER lines departing from Périgueux? Four lines serve Périgueux: the L31/D31 towards Bordeaux and Limoges via the Isle valley, the L32 towards Brive and Bordeaux, the D33 towards Sarlat and Bergerac via Bordeaux, and the L34 towards Les Eyzies, Sarlat and Agen.

• Can I take my bike on the TER regional train in Dordogne? Yes. Outside of the summer season, bikes travel free of charge and without reservation on all TER trains in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region. From May to the end of September, a Bike Ticket is required on certain lines. The VéloZen service, available in summer, offers assistance from a dedicated agent with a capacity of up to 25 bikes per train.

• How to get around between villages without a train or car? Eighteen regional bus lines complement the rail network in the Dordogne. In summer, nine additional lines serve tourist areas, including the Vézère Valley (line 339), the Dordogne Valley (line 338), and the Sarlat-Les Eyzies route (line 337). Tickets cost €2.50 and can be purchased from the driver or via the Ticket Modalis app.

• Is it possible to hike from train stations in the Dordogne? Yes, several marked trails start directly from the stations. From Les Eyzies, the Micoque loop (12 km) is accessible on foot from the platform. From Le Buisson-de-Cadouin, the confluence of the Vézère and Dordogne rivers at Limeuil is within cycling distance. The DORIE app offers geolocated audio content to accompany these hikes starting from the stations.

• What's the best base for exploring the Périgord without a car? Périgueux is ideal: it's the only railway hub in the department with connections in all directions. For the Périgord Noir specifically, Sarlat can also serve as a base, arriving from Bordeaux via the L33 line.

• Can I take my dog on the TER train? Yes. Small animals (under 6 kg) travel with a €7 ticket in a carrier with maximum dimensions of 45 x 30 x 25 cm. Large dogs travel at half price, must be muzzled, and kept on a leash throughout the journey.

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