Gargagnasse Trail in Tamniès: Discovering the Black Périgord

Nestled in the Grande Beune valley, in the heart of the Périgord Noir, Tamniès is one of those villages you discover almost by chance and never quite leave. Its ochre limestone houses, slate roofs, and peaceful atmosphere make it an ideal stop for those looking to get off the beaten track in the region, far from the hustle and bustle of big cities. It is here that the Gargagnasse trail winds its way, a 3.7 km loop that blends heritage, local legend, and unspoiled nature, in the heart of a Natura 2000 area renowned for its rich flora and fauna.

It was from the village pond, both a swimming spot and the starting point for the trail, that the Guide du Périgord chose to begin its exploration. A leisurely stroll to encounter a strange creature whose name is still whispered in the village streets...

The Legend of the Gargagnasse

The path takes its name from a playful and mischievous creature that is said to live somewhere between the Beunes valley and the hills of Tamniès. It is said that it changes its appearance with the seasons: some have seen it with hind legs in the Beunes valley, and front legs on the plateau... Quite unusual, isn't it?

Along the path, it gradually reveals its secret: the one that makes this place so special. A clue to decipher, in the form of a rebus, marks the route. The answer is only revealed a little further on. Enough to transform the walk into a mini treasure hunt, for young and old alike.

The Gargagnasse trail: practical information

• Distance: 3.7 km;
• Duration: approximately 1 hour 30 minutes;
• The complete route links 9 points of interest: the landscape of the Beunes, the cayrou and the cabin of Graves, the fountain of Graves, the hamlet of Castanet, the old weighbridge, the church of Tamniès, the wash house of Brunier and the valley of Beunes.

Tamniès pond, an ideal starting point

Created through a land consolidation project in 1968, the Tamniès pond covers 4,500 m² of fine sand and offers much more than just swimming. Awarded the Blue Flag label, it is equipped for supervised swimming, fishing, and small-scale boating with kayaks available for use. A pontoon, outdoor furniture, restrooms, and ample parking complete the site's amenities, designed to welcome both families and nature lovers. A fitness trail also circles the pond for those who wish to combine exercise with exploration.

Swimming is supervised from the end of June to the end of August, with a refreshment stand open during the same period. A perfect opportunity to fully enjoy the area before or after your walk.

When we arrived around 10 a.m., a few onlookers were strolling along the lake. We also noticed the fishermen already set up. Some had come prepared: bait, picnic tables, supplies... The atmosphere was friendly and relaxed. It was the perfect setting for a beautiful day, drifting along with the wind. After a short break and a quick look around, we set off to explore the village, perched on the hillside.

Tamniès, a village whose history dates back to the dawn of time

Overlooking the Grande Beune valley, Tamniès is a typical village of the Périgord Noir, with its ochre limestone houses, sometimes topped with slate roofs. The Beunes landscape is rich in examples of small-scale heritage: cabins, fountains, footpaths... all witnesses to an ancient history, patiently maintained by passionate inhabitants who love their land.

Upon arrival, the first thing that strikes you is the tranquility. Tamniès possesses that peacefulness characteristic of villages that have managed to remain untouched by the tourist crowds, where you can take your time strolling without encountering many people. Along the path, an enclosure shelters deer and donkeys that readily approach the gate to observe passersby. A stag with antlers even came to stare at us curiously, while two donkeys dozed in the shade. An unexpected encounter, at eye level, that gives this stage of the trail its unique charm.

The village then reveals itself in all its gentle charm : golden stone facades, white shutters, and flowerbeds overflowing from wooden planters along the walls. The Laborderie hotel-restaurant, with its typical Périgord architecture (turrets, slate roofs, and a flower garden), perfectly embodies this bucolic atmosphere and offers a glimpse into the local way of life. All around, the wooded hills of the Grande Beune valley stretch as far as the eye can see, between dense forests and golden fields, under a changeable sky typical of the Périgord region.

It was there, on the wall of a house, that we found the famous welcome sign. The rusty silhouette of the Gargagnasse watches over the trail map, as if to remind us that the legend is never far away. Now all we have to do is keep our eyes peeled to follow the arrows of the Gargagnasse trail.

The rest of the trail, for the more curious

The complete loop continues across the plateau, through an equally rich heritage. The trail notably passes the Cayrou and the Cabane des Graves, small dry-stone structures typical of the region, as well as the Fontaine des Graves. A little further on, the hamlet of Castanet reveals its traditional architecture, before the trail descends back towards the village, passing by the old weighbridge, the church of Tamniès, and the Brunier wash house, where the answer to the Gargagnasse riddle is hidden.

How to get to Tamniès?

Tamniès is located in the heart of the Périgord Noir region, just a few minutes from Sarlat-la-Canéda, one of the department's key towns. The village is accessible by car, with parking available near the football field, the starting point for the Gargagnasse trail.

What is there to do around the trail?

The Périgord Noir is full of sites that can be combined with a stop in Tamniès.

FAQ

• Is the Gargagnasse trail suitable for families?

The 3.7 km route, without any major technical difficulties, is ideal for a family outing. The rebus hidden along the path even adds a fun element for children.

• Is it possible to swim in the Tamniès pond?

Yes, the Tamniès pond offers supervised swimming from the end of June to the end of August, on a fine sandy beach of 4,500 m². It has been awarded the Blue Flag label.

• How long does it take to hike the Gargagnasse trail?

Allow approximately 1 hour 30 minutes for the complete 3.7 km loop, at a leisurely pace allowing you to enjoy the heritage and viewpoints.

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