Canoeing with the family on the Dordogne, with Cap Evasion

The Dordogne is the largest river in our department, which has 5 navigable rivers : La Vézère , Dronne , Auvézère , Isle and Dordogne . Canoeing in the Dordogne is a must , it is even one of the first outdoor leisure activities and one of the most popular places in France to practice these paddle sports. On the Dordogne, the routes are very pleasant as they are bordered by remarkable villages , castles and splendid viewpoints . There are also more confidential circuits , to feel like alone in the world, on the Hope River and that's what we are going to do today, as a family!

The Dordogne, this river, this very river!  

The Dordogne is a river classified as a World Biosphere Reserve , it is not only because it is bordered by a sumptuous natural environment , when it crosses our department to the south. It is above all thanks to its environmental richness and the commitment of all parties concerned for its preservation . Here, we try as much as possible to maintain the balance between human activities and the ecosystem , respect for biodiversity is one of the major elements, in the various decision-making related to town planning, tourism ... Dordogne, but also a large part of its hydrographic basin which are concerned, this distinction shines and therefore also calls out upstream : runoff water , small streams and all sources of supply to the river! All users of the river are concerned, residents as well as passing visitors . I invite you, like us, to keep this in mind and to pick up your waste well , during your wanderings on the Dordogne and on its banks!  

The Dordogne has its source in Puy de Sancy , without the Monts Dore in Puy-de-Dôme. From the Massif Central, it flows for 483 km, until it reaches the Garonne at Bec d'Ambès in Gironde. It also joins the Vézère , near Limeuil . There is a controversy on this subject: is the Dordogne a river or a river? Hydrographically speaking, it is a river, since it joins the Garonne, to form the Gironde estuary. But many are those who think in the depths of themselves and claim that the Dordogne is a river , why?  

• Because an estuary is a place where two rivers meet, it is even said that the waters of the Garonne and the Dordogne do not mix, the Dordogne therefore touches the ocean!
• Because we observe a very powerful Tidal Bore on the Dordogne , mainly in the Gironde department, in Vayres, in Castillon-la-Bataille, in Libourne. You can surf on a very impressive wave, which goes up the course of the river in one go, it is a shower resulting from the increase in the water level during strong ocean tides, it compresses on the banks, forming a wave whose wave advances and goes up the river. Click to learn more about the Tidal Bore.  

The confluence between the Dordogne (on the right) and the Vézère (on the left) in Limeuil

In short, we will call it all the same river, to remain consensual! It is navigable for nearly 150 linear km and in Périgord, it is really one of the most beautiful parts, without being chauvinistic, I promise. You will notice by looking at the map, that it is mainly in Périgord noir , between Cazoulès and Trémolat (after Limeuil), that we navigate on the Dordogne because downstream, there are dams, locks and the flow becomes most important. It is therefore the most secure and accessible part that is used, which should not prevent you from taking all the necessary precautions for your well-being and safety during your canoeing day.  

The Dordogne near Creysse, a few kilometers from Bergerac, the Tuillères dam. Not great to canoe there, but you can go for barge rides and that's great!  

There are many canoe and kayak bases on the Dordogne , to rent a canoe and cover several kilometers, even several dozen. Note that it takes about 1 hour of navigation, paddling at a moderate pace, but constant, for 6 km , depending on the route and without stops. The basics can be found at:  

• Saint-Julien-de-Lampon
• Veyrignac
• Carsac
• Vitrac
• Cenac
• La Roque Gageac
• Vezac
• Castelnaud-la-Chapelle
• Saint-Vincent-de-Cosse (at the Port d'Enveaux)
• Siorac

>>> Click to see our selection of partner rental companies, for courses on the Dordogne

La Roque Gageac and Beynac, by canoe!

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The castle route, along the water  

To see castles and take the most popular route , opt for the Cénac (or Carsac) -> Beynac section . Downstream (after), there are still several hours (depending on your pace) to reach Limeuil (the confluence with the Vézère, very very pretty) and the last stops at Sore and Trémolat beach. Upstream (before), there is a very natural and pleasant part, where you feel like you are alone in the world, that's what we have chosen to do, from Cazoulès to Saint-Julien-de-Lampon with Cap Evasion.  

Whatever your route and your rental company, it's always the same conditions of preparation and equipment . You need :

• Choose your boat : canoe or kayak . Pascal de cap, explains the difference. In a canoe , you are higher because the navigation bench is placed this way. Your butt is above the water level. It's more comfortable for paddling, the legs are bent and it's finally the original boat. Kayaks that are used for sightseeing navigation are different from those for competition, whitewater and sports. You sit lower , your bottom at water level, inside the boat and your legs forward . It takes more energy to paddle , but at the same time, it is safer , because it is stable and less quick to capsize and fill with water. Ask your landlord for advice. With 2 children aged 6 and 9 and knowing that I will be almost the only one to paddle, I opted for a 3 seater kayak.  
• A paddle : there are doubles, singles, of different sizes. By canoe or for the little ones, we often take singles, doubles in kayak.  
• A container to put your things and keep them dry. This is where I store my backpack with my daily picnic. The container is large enough to take bivouac gear, which you can canoe for several days!  

Choose your boat  

Choose your paddles and put on your life jacket

And load your container which is lodged behind the boat

Then there are two options : Either you go directly and you have a meeting point on a beach, at a specific time or according to a schedule of pickup by minibus, or you get in the minibus which drops you off upstream of your point of arrival . This is the option I prefer, because you don't have to keep the watch, it's the holidays after all!  

Here we go !  

Inside a kayak, the legs are stretched out

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The Cazoulès Saint-Julien-de-Lampon course  

Do you want to have the river all to yourself ? You want to admire wildlife such as the magnificent gray heron, the kingfisher (watch carefully!), The big and not very shy mute swan (which one sees more around the bridges), the mallard, the black kite which floats in the sky. above hills covered with holm oaks. Sometimes we see otters, fine and graceful mink and often, tight-fisted, which are impressive but not mean! The lucky ones will see deer (if you go early in the morning, they come to quench their thirst)?  

Cazoulès -> Saint-Julien is a little known route, but perfect for the family. It is 9km, we took 3 hours, with 2 stops: for lunch and for fun. There is no castle or village, just nature and you, very wild portions, it's the raw Dordogne that awaits you! The navigation is sometimes a bit sporty , because there are islands and you have to go to one side or the other, avoid branches, depending on the level of low water (the water level, which is regulated by dams upstream).  

A gray heron, but I don't have a zoom!

If you have already done the route des châteaux, I can only recommend one of the nature trails like this one, upstream from Cénac. There is a real pleasure to navigate in silence , to observe birds, to think of oneself as Robinson Crusoe during a stopover on an island. You can perfectly combine a bike ride with 3 hours of canoeing, because the Sarlat cycle path passes right at the arrival point in Saint-Julien-de-Lampon!  

The cycle path passes right through St Julien and along the Dordogne.

The end of the ride

I hope this article has made you want to discover a wilder part of the Dordogne. Find other reports on our BLOG. Follow us on the Facebook page of the Guide du Périgord and also on Instagram @guideduperigord

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