Canoë Dordogne: between sport and leisure in La Roque-Gageac

Did you know that the Dordogne department is the top destination in France for recreational canoeing and kayaking? Our magnificent navigable rivers, flowing through our splendid villages and castles, certainly contribute to this: the Dordogne, the Vézère, the Dronne, the Isle, and the Auvézère offer hours of enchanting river adventures! Today, my friend and I are taking you canoeing/kayaking on the Dordogne. From the picturesque village of La Roque-Gageac, we paddled all afternoon in idyllic conditions amidst breathtaking scenery. Shall we go? Put on a life jacket and join us!

Canoeing and kayaking on the Dordogne

The Dordogne is the river that, as you may have guessed, gave its name to our department. Like all navigable rivers in the Périgord region, it has been open to everyone (from age 5 and up) for peaceful paddling for over 40 years. The Dordogne is a wide, calm, and pleasant river to explore by canoe or kayak. It is navigable year-round, depending on its water level and local regulations. River tourism extends over 150 km, and during the season, you will harmoniously share the river with traditional flat-bottomed boats, fishing boats, and other canoes. This is the friendly aspect of this river, which also offers remarkable flora and fauna to those who take the time to observe. The water quality, excellent and crystal clear depending on the season, provides a habitat for numerous species of fish and crustaceans to thrive and lay their eggs.

The Dordogne has another advantage, one you'll truly appreciate in the summer: it's dotted with numerous pebble or silt beaches, offering a welcome respite for a picnic, a swim, or sunbathing. Cool, but not cold, the Dordogne is perfect for a few strokes from spring to early autumn. It's often crystal clear, except after heavy rains when the water becomes laden with silt from the banks. In summer, settling down on the beaches at dusk is a magical spectacle, a riot of warm colors against a backdrop of medieval castles. You might even catch a glimpse of a hot air balloon silently rising into the sky…

A family canoe trip

Today, we're setting off from the La Roque Gageac base with Canoë Dordogne, which also has a base (called Canoë Pirate) in Vézac. It's there, right at the entrance to La Roque Gageac, that we'll recharge our batteries before our afternoon of canoeing/kayaking.

The Pirate Canoe base offers the convenience of a large (free) parking lot, a picnic area by the water shaded by poplars and willows, public restrooms, and above all, a very high-quality snack bar. You can order a classic (but entirely homemade) hamburger, fish and chips, or fries with a hot dog, or opt for the delicious daily special, prepared with love and expertise. It changes every day, and, according to some locals (tourists we met at the snack bar), it's so good you could come back every day for a treat! We enjoyed homemade duck spring rolls with a mixed salad and a decadent dessert…

We take a minibus to the Roque Gageac base, just a few minutes away, and after putting on life jackets, we climb into two kayaks and off we go on an adventure! Right from the start, we look up, taking the time to appreciate the beauty of this renowned village that stands proudly before us. The barges and their occupants wave to us, and we paddle on until we reach a very natural stretch of the river beyond the village. Here, far from the town and the road, there is n't a sound … Oh! A kingfisher ! Oh! A heron ! The wildlife is abundant and not at all shy on the Dordogne.

In the distance, the first jewel of the trip comes into view: the Château de Castelnaud. It's splendid, bathed in sunlight, and quite imposing… It's easy to see why it inspired such fear in its attackers… We pass a few companions in canoes and kayaks, a friendly moment (I love chatting with everyone…). We pass under the first bridge, then head towards Beynac, even higher and more breathtaking. We stop at a beach before the village to enjoy a beautiful view and take a dip.

We set off again, and after passing Beynac, the landscape changes; it's very natural, and the water is calm, like a mirror. We glide silently through the water ; time seems to stand still! After a few dozen blissful minutes, we reach our destination, marking the end of this adventure with Canoë Dordogne. Since we're ahead of the minibus that's coming to pick us up, we have time for a quick splash and some skipping !

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